Plaster Repair
Cracked and sagging old plaster pulled back tight and skimmed, or stripped out for new board once its lath gives up.
Lansing Elite Drywall provides drywall repair and installation in Dimondale, MI, and we handle drywall replacement in Dimondale houses, garages and basements too.
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Most Dimondale owners stay put, so the work here is less about fixing a rental between tenants and more about one room at a time: a basement this year, a bathroom the next. We plan each stage so the board, tape and paint line up with whatever comes after it, and we tell you when a patch is small enough to do yourself.


About a fifth of Dimondale's homes date from 1939 or earlier, another fifth from the 1960s, and close to a fifth from the 1980s. So on one street you can find plaster over wood lath, early drywall, and 1980s board with a truss roof above it. Each one takes a different fix. That's why we confirm which one we're looking at before we give you a price.

Owners here often finish a basement over two or three seasons. We split that kind of job by room, not by trade: one room goes all the way to its last coat of paint while the next stays framed. A half-taped basement left through a damp summer takes on moisture in the compound, and the joints shrink and crack once the heat comes on.
Nearly every house in the village is lived in by its owner, so a lot of them have been added onto over the decades. Think of a 1980s family room off a 1920s kitchen, or a garage turned into living space. The seam between old and new is where you’ll see trouble. Plaster is thicker than half-inch board, which means the newer face sits deeper than the old one. Run a flat tape joint across that gap and it shows as a ridge under paint.
Here’s the sequence that hides it. Shim the new framing or fur out the board so the two faces sit level. Tape the joint with setting compound, then feather the coat out a foot or more on each side. If the old plaster is loose near the joint, it gets screwed back with plaster washers first. Otherwise the crack comes back along the edge of our tape.
Close to a fifth of Dimondale’s homes went up in the 1980s. Say you’ve got a crack where the ceiling meets an inside wall, and it opens every winter and closes by summer. That usually means the trusses are lifting as the attic dries and cools. It isn’t the house failing. Retape it and it tears again next January. So the fix is to let the ceiling float at that corner. We pull the nails or screws nearest the wall and clip the board to the wall plate instead, so it can move without showing.
Dimondale is a village inside Windsor Charter Township. If your job needs a building permit, like a finished basement or new walls, check with the village office on North Bridge Street first. They can tell you who inspects your address.
At about 16 minutes and under nine road miles, Dimondale is the nearest town on our list. Which means small jobs make sense here. A single nail-pop visit or one water stain costs about the same to reach as a job in Lansing itself.
We also serve Leslie, MI, south of Lansing on US 127, with the oldest houses on our list.
Dimondale has a population of about 1,179. Here is what that means for the work we do here.
| Local fact | Detail |
|---|---|
| Homes built 1939 or earlier | 21.6% of the village's 579 housing units, the plaster-and-lath era. |
| Homes built in the 1960s and 1980s | 17% each; the median year built is 1967. |
| Owner-occupied homes | 87.5%, and 87.4% are single-family detached houses. |
| Where the village sits | Inside Windsor Charter Township, Eaton County, on the Grand River; 0.94 square miles. |
| Michigan license | Required for residential work of $600 or more, materials included. |
Cracked and sagging old plaster pulled back tight and skimmed, or stripped out for new board once its lath gives up.
Cracked seams, corner gaps that open every winter, sagging board, cracked plaster and holes left by fans or plumbers, repaired after the cause is found.
Lower-level rooms boarded and finished once the foundation is dry, moisture-resistant sheets at slab level, Lansing permit in hand.
Seams finished to whatever level your paint and lighting demand, textures matched or applied, and skim coats that turn rough or textured walls smooth.
Brown rings, soft spots and drooping ceilings after ice dams, split pipes, bathroom leaks or basement water, opened, dried out and rebuilt to blend in.
Acoustic texture sampled, misted and scraped off, then the bare ceiling skimmed smooth for primer.
Garage walls and overheads hung to the residential code, Type X below bedrooms, finished for parking or a heated shop.
Describe the room and what happened to it. We call back with what the repair or hang probably involves and which details push the number up or down.
If the hole is about the size of a fist or smaller, a self-adhesive mesh patch and two or three thin coats of compound will do it. Anything bigger needs a piece of board screwed to a backing strip. And that's usually where a homeowner's patch starts to show.
Pull it an arm's length or so away from the wall, or out from under the ceiling we're working on. Anything heavy can stay put. We'll wrap it.
It could be either, since the switch happened around then. Take off an outlet cover and check the cut edge beside the box: drywall shows paper over a half-inch gypsum core, while plaster shows layers, often with lath behind.
Usually, yes. We patch the board flush, then spray or hand-apply texture and test it on a scrap first. A ceiling textured before 1980 gets a lab sample first.
Each coat of compound needs to dry hard, and in a cool basement that takes longer than upstairs. Running a dehumidifier helps. Once the last coat is sanded, a primer goes on before any paint.
Yes. Once the installer is done, we fill the gap between the new frame and the old wall, add corner bead where the opening has no trim, and finish it so the casing sits flat against it.
Ringing (517) 940-8317 gets you a first figure fastest. Otherwise fill in the form and expect a callback.